A variety of types of derby

A variety of types of derby

One of the most popular types of men's classic shoes is the derby shoes, which are characterized by an open lacing, where quarters are sewn over the vamp. This type allows the shoes to open as if they had loose shoelaces and at the same time keep the leg tight.

The main advantage of the derby is the convenience and comfort of wearing. Quickly becoming popular due to these qualities, derby continue to develop to this day. After all, no other type of footwear has so many subtypes. Before you get acquainted with the variety of derby shoes, read our article about the structure of shoes.

Split toe

Split toe derby joins the quarters by horizontal seam that stretches through the vamp and toe. The shoe toe also has its own differences — a horizontal seam that goes up to the intersection with the vertical one.

Depending on the type of horizontal seam, split toe is divided into two main subtypes: Algonquin and Norwegian. The algonquin derby is characterized by a flat horizontal seam, as if merging with the main part. The norwegian derby, in turn, stands out with an elevated, textured horizontal seam that emphasizes the central part of the derby.

Derby split toe
Split toe derby Berwick 2369 Black

Moc toe

Moc toe derby is a bit like the previous version — split toe. The horizontal seam is also laid between the quarters in this model, but it is always raised, and the toe of this type is exceptionally smooth and has no additional seams.

Derby moc toe
Kleman moc toe derby

Cap toe and plain toe

Cap toe derby is strikingly different from all types with an additional layer of leather, which lays the shoe toe. The toe is also separated from the vamp by a special seam in this derby type. The punch cap is placed in a separate subgroup among cap toe models. This type is less strict than the cap toe — a decorative seam that separates the toe and the vamp is decorated with broguing. All other parts of the punch cap are made exclusively of smooth, non-perforated leather. Stich cap is another type of cap toe. The suture on the toe of this derby type, which is also made of smooth leather, is made with a double stitching, not a simple stitching.

Derby cap toe
Tricker's cap toe derby

Plain toe derby is probably the strictest and "purest" kind of derby. This model has no decorative elements: no broguing, no additional seams, no double layers of leather. This is the strictest and most formal of all the subtypes of these shoes.

Derby plain toe
Alessandro plain toe derby


And the last thing to note is unique, unlike any other kind of derby — buck. This type of shoe stands out in the range of shoes due to its unusual appearance. Made of suede (and suede only), the buck derby is distinguished by the bright red color of the sole made of either crepe or rubber and its analogues. Buck is considered to be a summer version of the derby and combined only with informal clothes in the casual or street style.

Derby buck
Allen Edmonds buck derby

Derby shoes and boots are produced by many brands, including English Loake, Grenson, Cheaney and Spanish Berwick, Yanko and Michel.

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